I have been pretending to garden. I am not by nature a gardener. I am suspicious of gardening, as it hints to me of bourgeois Victorian positivism. Weed that soil! Trim those edges! Match those colours! My ancestors were the worst types of colonialists. See a tree? Cut it down! See a baby seal? Well, even my great grandfather couldn't cope with that one. So I am convinced after generations of unsuitable mangling of the land in order to turn it into some weird green and pink simulacrum of the ghost of England, that Gaia does not garden and neither do I. I do have a yard with some plants and I am beginning to develop a feel for them. Most of what I plant is edible, or native, or friendly to bees. I have 15 different edible things. But it is not gardening as such. Nothing in rows, nothing really pruned, no annuals, no peasants falling in the haha. (Ha ha!)

I have been helping microgreens to grow. These are Amaranth Red Garnet. I was very excited by them. The instructions were to sprinkle the seeds in the soil and cover them, and wait for three days. I was peeking at them an hour after I had watered them. I knew they would not have sprouted yet but it was all too exciting. They duly sprouted and now they are this vivid dark pink, too bright to be real I sprinkle a libation of water on them in the morning and I carry them around the house. Too pretty for the kitchen, they grace my room at times as I pay them daily homage.
In classical Athens, women celebrated Adonia, or the festival of the death of Adonis. Adonis in myth was a beautiful young man who was the lover of several deities, and who came to a sad end being gored to death by a boar. Adonia was not an official (read:civic, public, respectable. Read: male) festival, and it was celebrated by only women, and all women included the disreputable. Women planted quick-growing grains and vegetables in shards of broken pottery, The plants sprouted, then were left to wilt in the sun, and died. The women of Athens then repaired to the roofs of their houses to weep and mourn the brief beauty of Adonis and his gory death. And after that, they took to the streets. They carried their tiny dead gardens to the sea, and cast them in.
There is scholarly debate over the meanings of the gardens of Adonis. Sir James Frazer saw the ceremony as the standard death and rebirth vegetation rite. Anthropologists David Graeber and David Wengrow in their excellent book 'The Dawn of Everything' feel that the rites denoted pretend gardening, and I can relate to pretend gardening so I like their idea. They describe the backwards and forwards in and out of agriculture that many societies did over thousands of years - playful gardening or temporary gardening or pretend gardening was a way of tipping a cultural toe in agriculture without commitment. Other later scholars of mythology have considered the rite to be a great taking of the piss out of serious fertility ritual. These Athenian women mocked the death-and-rebirth-of-the-male-god rituals by doing something entirely playful and trivial. Maybe they also expressed communally the fragility of life and the power they as women had over it. If I can plant a flower and kill it, what else can I do? There is an incipient threat here.
The 'gardens of Adonis' became an expression to mean something trivial and temporary. Hang on a minute. Brief beauty, the fragility of youth, the thing that cannot take root, how death is a just a day in the sun away. These things are not trivial. Philosopher and economist Georges Bataille described something similar as 'the accursed share'. He was interested in luxury, in what people do with the time, energy and resources they have left over from necessary toil. The point of the accursed share is that it must be spent, in unproductive activity such as ritual, or non-reproductive sex, or spectacle. It must be spent on something you can't get back, you can't invest in. It is destined for waste. What we do with this luxury characterizes our societies.
Related is Jacques Lacan's (and Zizek's) idea of jouissance. Jouissance is enjoyment or pleasure beyond itself, or beyond the instinct for enjoyment. It is a form of enjoyment that is destabilizing, subversive and potentially destructive. For Lacan, jouissance is not just too much enjoyment. It is enjoyment that has tipped over into pain, or suffering. This kind of painful, rapturous, mystical enjoyment speaks to me of ritual, trance and merge.It is the state you get in the mosh pit at a metal gig, or a political protest, or in the throes of passion (passion meaning pain after all ) - all of which can be transgressive places. It is not for nothing that the Shaman endures hours of dancing, days of fasting, and spiritual peril in order to attain the state where they can merge with their helping spirits and become more than human. Consider the hook suspension practices of the Plains Indian Shamans, where extreme pain is used to change consciousness.
Mourning can also be ecstatic. I imagine the women of Athens on their rooftops, weeping for Adonis, a kind of over the top performative rapturous agonized weeping that is above all knowing. We know what we are about, we know the gods are watching us, we know we have left behind the necessities of toil and we are in this wildly overflowing state of emotional luxury. This is what we do with the accursed share. We know we are wasting it; that is the point. And the men don't get it and can't stop it, because rapture, passion and the pain of passion and rapture are not for them, at least not in public, at least not in Athens.
My microgreens are a waste. They are crazy beautiful. Their beauty is far greater than their usefulness although they do make a pretty garnish and they are probably quite rich in antioxidants or whatever. Short-lived, doomed, like Adonis, too beautiful to live.
When I said they were too beautiful to eat someone said to me, why would you eat anything less beautiful? I got to thinking, what if we ate only beautiful things? What if eating was an act of jouissance, an aesthetic feast? If every meal was a psychological potlatch, a celebration of the desire to eat rather than the base need? I am imagining eating only the best food - not the most expensive or fashionable, but the best and most beautiful. One shining leaf of silver beet still wet with rain, or the three blushing blueberries that just came ripe this morning. As a good animist, what if I treated my food as if it were alive?